An Amateur’s Primer on Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro

Disclaimer:  While I did successfully get to the top of Kilimanjaro a few days ago, I am certainly not an expert on Kilimanjaro, nor am I an expert on mountaineering.  Therefore, you’re not allowed to sue me if the information here is incomplete, misleading, or even inaccurate!  It’s just one man’s - heavily subjective – viewpoint.   All the same, I hope it will be of help to someone contemplating the climb.

First Question: Why would anyone want to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro?

Answer: I have no idea – because it’s there, maybe?  It’s the same reason that people go to the South Pole or run triathlons or sail around the world, I guess.  Let me assure you that it’s not a particularly enjoyable experience.  You will be sore, short of breath and uncomfortable all the time.  But you will be amazed by the natural beauty that you will witness, and in the end you will feel an indescribable sense of achievement.

When is the best time to go?

Answer: While people climb the mountain throughout the year (even in the rainy season), I was told by our guide that the best months are June through September.  Alternatively January and February are good too.  However these are also the times it will be most crowded.  For the record, our trek was between Dec. 27 and Jan 3.

Which route should you take?

Answer: While there are a number of different options, it appears there are four that seem to dominate.  The Marangu (aka the Coca Cola route) is the shortest, easiest and least expensive one.  It can be done in 5 days. However, it also has a somewhat lower rate of success because the ascent is too rapid for many. The trek on summit day is also somewhat longer and tougher.  The Machame trail (aka the Whiskey route) is the most popular one nowadays and typically takes 6 days.  It is a rather tough climb but has a decent success rate because you “climb high and sleep low,” which allows you to acclimatize better.   The other two routes are along the Lemosho and Rongai trails.  Both are relatively long and take more time as well, but also have high success rates because of the slow ascent and the opportunity to acclimatize.  To all routes you have the opportunity to add on extra days (at extra cost, of course…).  We took the Lemosho trail and added on a day to make it an eight-day trek.

How much will it cost and what tour company should you use?

Answer: I’ve put these two questions together because they are interrelated.  In general, climbing Kilimanjaro is not an inexpensive proposition.  On the other hand, most people are not going to do it more than once.  Think of it as a once-in-a-lifetime experience; it’s worth saving up and shelling out what it takes to be successful.  However, that does not mean that you have to go overboard!  At an absolute minimum, you should expect to spend at least $2000 (and this does not include the airfare to get to Tanzania or their visa fee of $100 for US citizens).   The actual amount you spend will depend on the duration of your trek, the route you choose, how many people are in your party, what sort of extra amenities you want, how much you choose to tip, and of course, the specific tour company that you go with (more on this in a bit…).  For the record, I wound up spending a little under $3000 on just the climb, but I was on a long route and there were only two in our party.  This amount also included tips, pickup and dropoff from the airport, and one night before and after the climb in a nice lodge in Moshi.  In addition, I spent a few hundred dollars on new clothing and gear – if you’re a seasoned backpacker you might already have much of what you need.

There are dozens of tour companies operating out of Moshi and Arusha, and there’s a huge range in their prices. In my research, I came across prices ranging from under $1,000 all the way to some that were bumping up against $10,000!  In general, you are better off finding an outfit that is entirely local – nothing wrong with the ones with big offices in the US or UK I’m sure, but they will definitely be much more expensive, and if you look carefully, you will find local outfits that are just as reliable.  On the other hand, you don’t want to go with someone offering cut-rate prices, because most likely they’re exploiting their porters.  Morality and ethics aside, do you really want to trust yourself to crew members who probably hate working for their company?  That said, there’s no reason to pay $6000 or $8000 either: is it really that important for you to be seated at a table with a high-quality table cloth, or for the pads below your sleeping bags to have covers with a nice red checked pattern, or for your mess tent to have a lantern as oppose to candles, or for your porters to all be wearing color coordinated uniforms?!  As a Kenyan friend put it: “The main difference is that in one case you get omelets for breakfast, in the other you will be asked whether you prefer your eggs scrambled, over-easy or sunny side up!”  But in the end it all depends on what you want.  You can get oxygen tanks and bariatric chambers and private potties and even an extra porter just to carry your daypack – all at a price, of course.  My suggestion with tour operators is to first make sure that you are comfortable with their level of experience and the importance given to safety, and after that you can splurge as you see fit.  Overall, I think there’s absolutely no reason why you should spend more than $3500 (including tips) on the climb.  But of course, if you can afford to, then by all means, feel free to splurge!

For the record, after lots of research on-line we decided on a local outfit based in Moshi called Ahsante Tours (http://www.ahsantetours.com/) and we were very satisfied with the price and the service we got from them.

How do I prepare for the climb?

Answer:  First of all, you do not need to be a mountaineer – there’s no technical climbing involved.  That’s what makes Kilimanjaro attractive to so many climbers.  You don’t need to know anything about ice axes or crampons!  You do have to be in reasonably good physical shape but you don’t need to be a triathlete - I try to get to the gym once or twice a week and while Don and I are both seasoned day-hikers, neither of us is a fitness freak or a super athlete. In fact, I just had arthroscopic surgery in my knee for a torn meniscus last year.   I’m 53 and I saw several people older than me who made it to the top (along with others, much younger and more athletic, who didn't…).  It helps if you have done some trekking or backpacking, but it’s not critical.  I would suggest that you exercise as often as you can, and go for some five to eight mile weekend treks in preparation.  It helps if you can do these over hilly terrain.  Beyond that, I’m not sure you really need to do anything special.

So, how do I maximize my chances of making it to the top?

Answer: A lot of it obviously depends on you as an individual, but here are a few tips.  First, do not underestimate the importance of acclimatization.  This is at least as important (if not more so) than physical fitness.  If at all possible, add a day to whatever route you choose.  Second, go slow.  The Swahili word for this, which you will hear all the time, is polepole; it means “slowly.”  Most casual hikers are used to a 2.5 to 3 miles per hour pace; on Kilimanjaro you will rarely be doing more than about a mile an hour on your way up.  If that seems slow, it is.  But it’s critical to ensure that you acclimatize properly and that you don’t burn out before you get to the top.  Third, you have got to be mentally strong and have a positive attitude.  There will be times when you’ll be ready to give up, but you have to go on.  This is where it helps if you’re part of a group that is supportive.  Fourth, make sure you have the right gear and clothing (see the next section for my suggestions) because not ensuring this can wreck the whole party.  Fifth, be sure to hydrate – drink lots and lots of water.  If you will pardon the graphic description, when you pee a lot and the urine is clear that’s a good sign, if you don’t feel like going and it’s dark yellow when you do, that’s not a good sign!   And finally, your guides are trained to distinguish between mere tiredness, normal altitude sickness and acute mountain sickness.  They will push you and help you and encourage you if it’s the former, but if it’s the latter they will want to get you down as rapidly as possible.  So be completely open and honest with them, and listen to what they say – their decisions should be final.

What gear and clothing should I take with me?

Answer: In terms of gear you don’t need to worry about tents, sleeping bags or sleeping pads.  If you have a favorite sleeping bag rated to -20°C you might want to take it along, but I found the bag that Ahsante provided was more than adequate – I did take along an inexpensive liner for the inside.  I also took along a Thermarest self-inflating mattress, but it was a waste; I never used it once.  Take a good lightweight daypack with hydration (i.e., a water bladder) and a waterproof cover, and a couple of Nalgene water bottles that can fit into pockets on the side.  Walking poles are also a good idea.  On summit day as well as evenings inside your tent you will need a good headlamp; take extra batteries along too.  For your main duffel (that the porters will carry) pick something that is 30 inches long and 12 to 15 inches in diameter.  If you can find something made of material that is waterproof (or at least water-resistant) that’s good too (although this will likely add to the cost).   I took a canvas duffel and it got wet (although this was mostly because there was a screw-up by Ahsante on the first day).

Coming to clothing, the most important rule:  do not take along anything that is made of cotton!  You will not be changing your clothes every day and you will get smelly, so you want something that breathes and dries up fast.  Here’s what I suggest (and I will go in order of importance!).

Shoes (critical): Get a pair of the best quality, lightweight, completely waterproof boots that you can afford.  Make sure they’re well broken in before you leave.  I bought a pair of Merrell Chameleons (http://tinyurl.com/apu5xfm) for the trek and they were just excellent.  Some people will suggest you take a second pair of sneakers to wear around camp – I think it’s a waste, you’ll just have two filthy pairs instead of one to cart around.

Rain gear (critical):  Get the best waterproof, windproof, and breathable rain pants (with zippers on the side) and rain jacket that you can afford.  My rain pants were excellent even though I only paid about $35 for them, but my rain jacket (for which I paid about the same) was lousy, and I paid for it in spades.  You cannot escape the rain on Kilimanjaro and I can’t emphasize enough the importance of high quality light-weight rain gear - you will be carrying this in your daypack every single day.

Gaiters (critical): Get a good pair of waterproof gaiters that you can put on and remove easily. They’re critical to ensure that water and other junk don’t get into your boots and that your feet stay dry.

Socks (critical): Take along half a dozen pairs of good merino wool hiking socks.  You should also have lightweight polypropylene liners to use on your feet inside the socks.

Tops: You will be taking a layered approach since the temperatures vary widely during the course of the climb.  For the base layer, take along three t-shirts or sleeveless vests.  Buy them one size smaller than what you normally use so that they are tight around your upper body.  For the mid layer, take along three to four lightweight turtleneck or high-neck polypropylene tops (and you can buy these cheap – no need to spend an arm and a leg). For colder days and for sleeping at night take along one or two long sleeve, lightweight fleece tops/jackets/hoodies (not cotton).  Finally, you can throw in a lightweight windcheater if you want. 

Bottom:  Start with three pairs of quick dry polypropylene underwear.  A pair or two of tights is great as a mid-layer when it gets colder.  You will also need a pair (or two) of lightweight fleece pants – they’re great to sleep in at night and are useful when you need an extra layer to protect against the cold.  For the outer layer take along two to three pairs of polypropylene hiking pants, or even standard poly athletic pants – again there’s no reason to waste a lot of money here.  Forget about shorts – they’re a waste.

Cold weather gear:  You will need this only on summit day but it’s critical.  First, take along a pair of good thermal underwear/ longjohns – top and bottom.  It’s worth spending the money to get something made of high-quality lightweight merino wool.  You will also need a good windproof winter jacket with a hood.  I took along a down jacket, but if you want to save space you might consider getting something with a good removable fleece inner and a high quality shell.  For your head, you will need a wool cap that covers your ears (or you could use ear muffs).  A balaclava might be useful, but I find them too claustrophobic and opted for a wool neck gaiter instead, that I pulled up to cover my chin and nose when needed.  Finally, you’ll need waterproof down mittens to wear over an inner pair of polypropylene liner gloves.  Don’t get gloves because mittens are much more convenient when you’re carrying chemical handwarmers.

Packing your stuff properly (critical):  Make sure you have a large supply of 1 gallon ziplock bags as well as some larger plastic bags (garbage bags of various sizes work well).  Organize your clothes into separate bags before you pack them into your duffel – socks in one, undies in one, tops in one, fleece in one, dirty clothes in one, etc., etc.   Line your duffel with plastic if possible.  The objective is to minimize the chances of rainwater reaching your clothes.  I did some of this organization, but not enough, and I paid dearly by finding out the hard way that there’s nothing more miserable than having to deal with damp clothes that refuse to dry out.

Medical and other stuff:  Good quality chapstick and sunscreen are critical.  Being from India originally, I don’t burn easily and I ignored the sunscreen.  When I descended after summiting I found that the combination of sun and wind had played havoc with my nose, which peeled off for several days thereafter!  Take along antibacterial handwipes – you can get Wet Ones in convenient pocket sized units at Wal-Mart – and some small bottles of Purell.  Also, a small vial of liquid soap for when you wash your face. In addition to any prescription medicines it’s good to have some aspirin, ibuprofen, decongestant and Imodium handy. 

And finally, there’s Diamox.  I am not a physician and I certainly cannot tell you whether you should use it or not – that’s something for you to discuss with your doctor.  In the interest of full disclosure, I did use it – half a tablet (125 mg) at breakfast and another half at night with dinner.  I don’t know if it was the Diamox or just our gradual ascent, but I had no symptoms whatsoever of altitude sickness.  However, I certainly do NOT mean to imply that you should use it too! Again, consult your doctor for advice.

I think I covered all the essentials.  Good luck, and remember – polepole!